We are having a family reunion, on Independence Day
They are all coming to my house, much to my dismay

I dearly love them all, but thoughtless they can be
On my antique furniture, they leave their cup of tea

All their beverages leave an unsightly watermark
I am making Coasters, so at them I will not bark

Not just one, but many, such as the Pinwheel Lace
The Lacy Diamond, The Pineapple, I must keep up the pace!

Aroma Therapy Spiral Lace, and the Olde Time Apple too
Sunny Sunflower, Pastel Blossoms, I love them all, don’t you?

My mom will set her coffee cup on the Spring Pineapple Butterfly
It is worth the extra effort to keep my furniture nice and dry.

Personally, I pick for myself the Patriotic Kitchen Set
It will be my way of keeping my table tops from getting wet

So think ahead and crochet up some protection for yourself
Or you may find some watermarks upon your bookcase shelf

~Y~Y~Y~Y~Y~Y~Y~Y~Y~

Written by: Lindy Hicks for crochetmemories.com

April 10, 2013

That’s the case behind one of our newest patterns, Alice’s Tea Party Crinoline Circle Doily. I had the idea in mind to design a crinoline circle with teapots and teacups but to have small flat teapots and teacups placed between the crinolines. I was hoping for both pieces - with one crinoline pouring from a teapot and the adjacent crinoline holding up a teacup.

As the project grew bigger and I had a better idea of how much space I had to work with, I realized I wouldn’t be able to get both teacup and teapot between each crinolines without crowding. Deciding that only one would fit, I figured one crinoline could hold a teapot and the next a teacup.

When I started the doily center though the idea occurred to create a teacup and saucer instead of a flat small doily center as I usually do. I quickly went to work and was pleased with the finished center. Next, the difficult part, is getting the crinolines to fit with play between each for not only sleeves and/or arms, but also the connecting pieces. In this case, the teapots.

Next came the hats. Hats? Originally, yes. But before the hats, I assembled three of the crinolines next to the teacup center and having used the color blue for the dresses, it quickly became apparent, this doily was resembling Alice in Wonderland. I asked hubby what he saw - yep, Alice in Wonderland!

I set out to design a matching hat, had it all worked out and even three girls connected to the teacup center. But when I laid it out flat, the Alice in Wonderland theme was disappearing. The hats took away from the whimsy. I opted for hair and found it was exactly what I needed to keep the theme going.

I can’t even remember the number of teapots I designed only to find fault with each before landing on the one I felt just right.

I’m not sure how many hours went into designing this newest crinoline circle doily, but I can tell you, A LOT. And along with the hours I also put in a love/hate relationship. While I loved this, I discarded that. At times, I also felt the urge to toss the whole thing in the trash. I’m glad I didn’t.

While probably three weeks or more went into designing this piece, I ask that if you enjoy this pattern and someone else would like to have it; please refer them to my site to obtain a copy for their own use. Three weeks or longer is a long time to spend on one project perfecting it so others can enjoy it, and when you think of the time verses the price, it’s not much at all. So please, share the URL where the pattern is found and not the pattern! Its a small price for great designs that will provide one with hours of crochet pleasure and a project they can admire for many years to come!

With filet there are other stitches one can incorporate for a more complex and interesting design. For instance one of the other more common stitches in filet is the lacet. Lacets remind me of rattan or lattice work and add beauty to your work.

While the concept of lacets is easy, they require 2 rows alternately worked. And they can start with either row, just as long as you alternate between the rows.

Lacets worked on a foundation of open mesh:
      Dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc

Lacets worked on a foundation of solid mesh:
      Dc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc

Starting with the alternate lacet row worked over a foundation of open mesh:
      Dc in next dc, ch 5, sk next dc, dc in next dc

Starting with the alternate lacet row worked over a foundation of solid mesh:
      Dc in next dc, ch 5, sk next 5 dc, dc in next dc

Lacets worked over a lacet row:
      Dc in next dc, ch 5, dc in next dc

The alternate row of lacets worked over a lacet row:
      Dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next ch 5 sp, dc in next dc

As I said above, there are variables to filet crochet which include working a dc, ch 1, dc – as in yarn baby blankets. To create more of a square in the filet, adjustments need to be made for yarn and/or hook sizes.

More next month!

Filet is relatively easy once you understand the concept. Much like mosaics, you simply create a picture by filling in the squares, or as in this case, the mesh/grids. The mesh in itself is nothing more than dc and chs. Once the foundation chain is laid, you work an open mesh with double crochet and ch 2 sps. The double crochet is worked into every 3rd foundation ch (or beg ch).

On the 2nd row, you work a dc into each dc with a ch 2 between. Like I say, this is basic for most filet patterns. There are variables just like anything else.

To create the picture, you fill in the squares or open mesh with (2 dc) worked over the ch 2 sps.

But as simple as it sounds there are some ground rules.

First, not all squares or mesh are composed of 4 stitches as it might seem at first, but 3 sts. At the end of the row, you work an additional stitch to complete the grid. It would look something like this:

4 dc = 1 solid mesh: (4 dc)
1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = 1 open mesh: (4 sts)
7 dc = 2 solid mesh: (7 dc)
1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc = 2 open mesh: (7 sts)

In other words, the last stitch at the end of the mesh also serves as the first st of the next mesh. As a wall in your home is shared by two rooms – the one on one side of the wall and the other on the other side of the wall – the mesh on each side of the double crochet, share the double crochet between them.

Second, when working in rows you can not always read your chart from left to right. In other words, when working on the right side of your work, you’d be reading left to right, but when working back, you now must read the chart from right to left or you’d end with an abstract – which you might prefer! 

A good way to indicate which way to read the chart is to draw arrows. When reading the chart from left to right, draw an arrow on the left side of the chart pointing to the right and then on the next row up, draw another arrow on the right side of the chart pointing to the left. At a glance, you’ll always know which way to read the chart and keep your work on course.

In the next few weeks I’ll add more information in regard to filet from variables, advance filet stitches, how to work beyond the basic square or rectangle shape and more!

Stop! Do not continue, because by continuing the problem will only worsen.

Read. Re-read the instructions to ensure you read it correctly.

I’ve often found that people overlook the small, but oh-so important words when crocheting. Words like “in” and “skip.” Sometimes crocheters think they know what’s in the instruction and start off on a course they think is right, only to find out they should have “read” what was actually in the instruction.

Count. Count the stitches to see if you’re off, but not only in the row or round you incurred problems, but the previous rows/rounds too. By missing something in a previous round, it will throw off the current round.

Check the pattern instructions to see if it’s correct before taking time to contact the designer or editor. For instance below are two rounds – the first to give you a count so we can check if the next round is accurate.

Example Instruction

Rnd 2) Working in back lps only this rnd; ch 3; * dc in next dc; rep from * around; join with a sl st to first dc: 42 dc.

Rnd 3) Beg shell in joining see special sts, sk next 2 dc; * shell in next dc see special sts, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around; join with a sl st to first dc: 14 shells.

How to determine if the pattern is correct

With rnd 2, we end with 42 dc so when we begin rnd 3, we can easily check if the 14 shell count is correct.

1: Determine the number of stitches used in the pattern repeat.

2: Start from the asterisk instead of the beginning of the rnd.

3: Count how many stitches the repeat spans:

* shell in next dc, skip next 2 dc;

(The shell is worked in 1 stitch – skipping next 2 dc spans over 2 more stitches. Now total the number of stitches the repeat spans; 1 plus 2 = 3.)

4: Divide the total number of stitches you ended with from the previous rnd; 42 by the number of stitches the pattern repeat spans in the current rnd; 3.

42 divided by 3 = 14.

So with a little math you can easily determine if the instructions are correct. If you end up with more or fewer shells check the instructions to see what you missed – in this case it would have been the sk next 2 dc. Did you only skip 1 dc, or 3?

Everyone has a favorite stitch or stitches. Mine are the pineapple followed closely by the spider web, today though we’re going to talk “pineapple!”

Pineapples are truly a beautiful stitch. Feathering out from a base to be worked off in chain stitches to a point, they resemble a peacock feather more than the fruit. But regardless of why it’s named a pineapple – it’s a beautiful stitch and easy to work for the crocheter (once you understand the technique), as it is to design with.

But have you noticed the variations on this stitch? It can vary from non-traditional pineapples to traditional and then expanded on. For instance:

1. Pineapples can be worked within a border of shells – traditional.
2. Pineapple can be worked without a border of shells – non-traditional.
3. Pineapples can be worked with a base of treble followed by a second row of trc with ch spaces.
4. Pineapples can be worked with a base of double crochet.
5. Pineapple loops can be worked with a ch 3 or larger.
6. First row of pineapple loops can be worked into the first row of spaces on the base.
7. First row of pineapple loops can be worked into the stitches of the base.
8. First row of pineapple loops can be worked between the stitches of the base.
9. Pineapple don’t necessary have to be worked with chain loops – they can be worked with popcorns.

As you can see, pineapples vary a lot which make them fun and unique and definitely adaptable to the design at hand.

An easy pattern to help get you started if you’re unfamiliar with pineapples is our Pineapple Daisy Doily pattern.

One of the reasons I think crocheters can tend to think of pineapples as difficult is because it’s not fully explained in the instructions. For instance here are hypothetical instructions picking up in middle of a pattern…

Rnd A) Beg shell in joining, ch 3, (9 trc) in next ch 5 sp, ch 3; * shell in next shell sp, ch 3, (9 trc) in next ch 5 sp, ch 3; rep from * around; join with a sl st to first dc of shell: 6 beg pineapples with 9 trc each/6 shells/12 ch 3-sps.

Rnd B) Sl st in shell sp; beg shell in same sp, ch 3, trc in next trc, (ch 1, trc in next trc) 8 times, ch 3; * shell in next shell sp, ch 3, trc in next trc, (ch 1, trc in next trc) 8 times, ch 3; rep from * around; join with a sl st to first dc of shell: 6 pineapples with 9 trc and 8 ch 1-sps each/6 shells/12 ch 3-sps.

Rnd C) Sl st in shell sp; beg shell in same sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, ch 3; * shell in next shell sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, ch 3; rep from * around; join with a sl st to first dc of shell: 6 pineapples with 7 ch 3-lps each/6 shells/12 ch 3-sps.

Here’s where the confusion begins. The first ch 3 made is going to be counted as a space – it’s the bridge, if you will, that connects the pineapple to the shell. The remaining ch 3 worked across the pineapple are now counted as loops, because simply, they form more of a loop than a space. The last ch 3 is also counted as a space because it will bridge the pineapple to the shell on the opposite side.

Rnd D) Sl st in shell sp; beg shell in same sp, sk next ch 3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 lp) 7 times, ch 3; * shell in next shell sp, sk next ch 3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 lp) 7 times, ch 3; rep from * around; join with a sl st to first dc of shell: 6 pineapples with 6 ch 3-lps ea/6 shells/12 ch 3-sps.

In traditional patterns, the pineapple isn’t explained as explicitly. You’ll find the instructions more along these lines:

Rnd C) Sl st in shell sp, beg shell, (ch 3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, ch 3; * shell in next shell, (ch 3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, ch 3; rep from * around; join.

Rnd D) Sl st in shell sp, beg shell, (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 sp) 7 times, ch 3; * shell in next shell, (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 sp) 7 times, ch 3; rep from * around; join.

The instructions are written for those already familiar with the pineapple and don’t explain that you work into the loops or that you skip the spaces that bridge the pineapple to the shells worked on either side.

The other thing one should understand in working pineapples is they are created so they taper to a point (end). This means each time you work across the pineapple, you work one less loop or one less popcorn until eventually you have no loops or popcorns to work into.

Once you understand the technique, pineapples are fun and easy to work.

To get you started on some pineapple projects, check out our page that lists pineapple stitched patterns on our site. It’s a fast and easy way to check out patterns that are worked in a particular stitch. Pineapple Menu.

And happy pineapple stitching!

The first part of my “hiatus” was searching for just the right template. I found one I liked but as soon as I uploaded the files online, it looked nothing like what my dinosaur HTML editor conveyed! Yikes! So back in search for another, easier designed template. I couldn’t find one I liked well and then tried to “redo” my existing design. No go! They say the third time’s a charm – and it was. I fell in love with the simplicity of the template I chose.

After getting the template, came the job of reworking the pages – but wait, if I was going to go with another shopping cart, I first needed to find it, set it up and begin entering products.

Well as you can imagine, my hiatus became a full time job, but with purpose. I worked long hours and it took me about 3 months from start to finish. Oh wait – it’s still not finished. Wink, wink! But it will – I promise!

Say, if you haven’t signed up for my newsletter now is probably the right time. I just finished designing what I call the Loopy Loops Coaster – it’s a fun project with almost a slide-show presentation how-to. If you’re stumped by the instruction – just check out the pictures for clarification.

Okay, so that brings me to another point; and would love your feedback. I have tons of free patterns but I’ve neglected, due to time constraints, adding those to the free patterns pages. I hope to have some time in the near future to get caught up on all the little things that have been put on the back burner. But I’m a bit stumped as to how to link them.

Let me explain. Now while free patterns are a courtesy of the designer and/or company involved in publishing them, it doesn’t mean they’re free to grab and post on eBay, Etsy, Ravelry, someone else’s blog, for money or for free. Because I seem to have problems from time to time with people thinking that what’s mine is theirs, I decided I’m publishing all patterns in PDF format. Will it stop people – probably not but hopefully it’ll make it a bit more difficult to take them.

Another reason for doing this is the amount of work. Some are familiar with HTML, PHP, CSS, and XML etc. etc, but have any of you who don’t do website pages looked at the “wrong side” of the page you’re viewing? There’s a ton of code! In making a small pattern appear as it does on the “right side” a ton of code has to go onto the page. That’s more time I’d rather be spending designing more patterns – free or otherwise.

I‘d love to hear feedback…

After another stab using a modified version of what I’m currently using, I found a template I liked well. At this point, I have about 2/3 to 3/4 of the pattern pages and menus reformatted but I still have a ways to go.

So there you have it - if the site seems stagnant and unattended, it is in design only. But I assure you, I’m right here at my computer most days working away and the site is still open and ready for business.

My goal now is to have the site ready to launch by the third week of August. Not all pages will be set up under the new format yet, but once the patterns are up and directed to the new shopping cart, I’m launching.

Of course Easter is one of my favorites for decorating and crafting. When the kids were young, I would often make sugar eggs. It’s like packing wet sand in a pail and then turning the pail upside down to dislodge your piece of art…very carefully of course!

Making sugar eggs is much like that using a special egg mold and tinted sugar. Once the eggs are ready to remove from their mold the fun begins; decorating the inside! Half the fun is choosing the pieces you’ll need to create the desired scene. Care is taken in securely placing each piece to the inside bottom of the egg half using royal frosting. Then “glue” the egg halves together using royal frosting and piping trim and flowers for the final touch!

Each of the panoramic Easter eggs I’ve designed in crochet take me back not only to those early days when my kids were young, but further back to my own childhood. I just loved peeking in the peep hole to see the scene nestled securely inside!

Let’s decorate for Easter; here are some fun free patterns you can make for you and your family!

Free Bunny Door Knob Cover
Free Lace Egg Basket
Free Easter Crochet-a-Long/Mystery
Free ‘Lil Lamb “Steelwool Holder”
Free Fridige Easter Basket
Free Multi-Easter Eggs
Free Filet Cross Easter Egg Cover
Free Easter Bunny Napkin Ring
Free Ribbon Plaid Cross Bookmark
Free Gangly Easter Chick Fridgie
Free Easter Bunny Fridgie
Free Easter Bunny Fridgie
Free Butterfly Bookmark